Mesa Nottingham: Five stars aren't enough for this city centre restaurant that's in a league of its own

I am very ready for ‘small plate weather’ when tapas-style dishes can be enjoyed to the max.

Mesa in Hockley is an eatery that is loud and proud of its small plate offering, which means an imminent visit was on the cards one sunny weekend.

Sitting on Goose Gate in the heart of the city, Mesa’s industrial vibes are carried through the venue, from wooden tables and benches to metal trellises attached to walls. 

We ordered several small plates, having stopped off for drinks at Pogo, the bar opposite to check out some new cocktails. 

The menu, although compact, is versatile and appears to have something for everyone. 

Six plates are recommended for two to share, but we thought we’d try three and a side, as we were after a lighter lunch. 

Heaven on a plate

The Fried Thai Chicken Leg was succulent, and the rhubarb hot sauce brought tang and fire to the dish, and pickled ginger provided a subtle sweetness.

The ginger slivers married well with fragrant basil mayonnaise.

I steer clear of mayonnaise due to an allergy, however, my dining partner tasted the ginger-mayo combo and said it “went very well together.”

Sublime seafood dish that you won’t ever want to end

Fleshy pan-fried stone bass felt gloriously chunky to eat, but it was the accompanying silken bouillabaisse sauce in all its onion-garlic glory that made me wish this dish would never end.

Pickled mussels surprisingly had a hint of sweetness, not at all vinegary, which is not what I was expecting.

I steered clear of charcoal mayonnaise but it looked so inviting, I almost considered giving in and facing a day full of migraine the following day. 

Fish too pretty to eat

Woodfired mackerel came nicely torched, but there were quite a few bones that made eating this dish a little fiddly. 

A dollop of lemon crème fraîche with a pool of punchy jalapeño green sauce lifted this dish nicely and made it look pretty too.

Magic fries

Sides are usually an afterthought, but not at Mesa.

The herb salt fries were not only seasoned well, they remained crisp for the full duration of lunch.

That has never happened before, leading me to wonder if there was some sort of magic afoot. 

Sweet treat with a twist

I have never had a chunk of fudge topped with mandarin purée.

Then again I have never dined at Mesa.

Caramelised white chocolate fudge was dense and luxurious while citrus notes from the purée brought tang and an acidic whisper to the palate.

The team at Mesa certainly knows what they’re doing. 

Side dishes are lavished with attention to detail, I am still thinking about those fries. 

Even garnishes, such as nasturtium leaves on mackerel, and Pangrattato on stone bass, are well thought out.

From the execution of dishes to creative ingredient pairing (that rhubarb hot sauce was a stroke of genius), Mesa offers up gastronomical excellence.

Service was warm and friendly, waitstaff were knowledgeable and happy to share their recommendations. If Sam or Sarah are there, you’re in super safe hands.

When I am still thinking about the food a few days after eating, I know I have stumbled upon a very special eatery. 

So, to be brutally honest, ratings don’t exist for a place like Mesa.

This restaurant easily smashes the 5-star boundary, catapulting itself into a league of its own.

For an elevated food experience that will make you want to live in the Mesa kitchen and eat all the food the team creates, head on over to Mesa.

What we ate at Mesa Nottingham

• Rum & Ginger Beer £ 6.50
• Pomona Dreamer £7.50
• Fried Thai Chicken Leg £11
• Pan-fried stone bass £11
• Woodfired mackerel £11
• Herb salt fries £5.50
• Caramelised white chocolate fudge, mandarin purée £7
• 10% Service charge £5.95

Total £65.45

Address Mesa, 24-26 Goose Gate, Nottingham NG1 1FF

For more information about Mesa visit their website by clicking here.