The £125 Dermalogica serum designed to make hollow under-eyes look fuller

There are some skincare concerns that even the best concealer can only do so much to disguise, and hollow, tired-looking under-eyes are definitely among them.

It’s something Dermalogica is tackling with its new Smart Eye Density Serum, £125, an innovative treatment designed specifically for the delicate area beneath the eyes, where the naturally thinner skin calls for an incredibly gentle touch.

Rather than simply promising brighter or more hydrated skin, the big claim here is that it can actually help rebuild visible under-eye density. And Dermalogica certainly isn’t being shy about the results. The brand says Smart Eye Density is clinically proven to rebuild under-eye density by 129% after four weeks, based on an independent clinical study involving 33 people using the serum twice daily.

What I love about the new Dermalogica Smart Eye Density Serum

I’ve always been intrigued by the science behind beauty products and this one is particularly interesting. At the heart of the formula is a growth factor complex, using biomimetic growth factors from plant-based and bacterial sources. These proteins are designed to support the skin’s natural renewal processes, while something called an oleosomal delivery system helps provide controlled, targeted delivery to the eye area. In simple terms, it’s a smart way of carrying the active ingredients to where they’re needed and releasing them in a more controlled way.

There are also two types of hyaluronic acid to hydrate and add volume, plus a mechanobiology-inspired rye-seed extract. Polyglutamic acid, sweet potato extract and CoQ10 are included to help visibly reduce discolouration.

It’s an impressive ingredient line-up, but what I particularly like about the concept is that Dermalogica is addressing something many eye creams largely overlook. As we age, the skin beneath our eyes can become thinner and lose density, making shadows and hollows more obvious. Smart Eye Density is designed to tackle that rather than simply adding a temporary hit of moisture.

The serum comes in a sleek 15ml airless pump bottle, and you only need a dot for each application. Dermalogica recommends dispensing it onto your ring finger (to encourage a lighter touch!) and gently tapping it beneath the eye and along the orbital bone, working from the inner corner towards the temple.

I used it morning and evening for four weeks (importantly, let it soak in before applying anything else to your skin) and saw a definite improvement to how the skin around my eyes looked. The under-eye areas appeared smoother and more hydrated, plus a little brighter. I also really liked how it has helped concealer look smoother.

One customer noted an instant plumping effect but that wasn't the case for me, the improvements happened more gradually. I don't have dark circles but fans of this new product say it has helped with that problem, too.

What I don’t like so much about Dermalogica’s Smart Eye Density

The biggest sticking point is undoubtedly the price. At £125 for just 15ml, Dermalogica Smart Eye Density Serum is not cheap, even by premium skincare standards. You only need a small amount for each application, which helps, but when you consider that it is designed to be used morning and evening, it's still a considerable amount to spend on one very targeted part of your skincare routine. For anyone on a tighter beauty budget, the price alone could be difficult to justify, particularly when there are plenty of eye creams and serums available for considerably less.

It's also worth managing expectations about what a topical serum can realistically achieve. The Eye Density Serum is designed to improve the appearance of thinning, crepey skin and loss of density around the eyes, but it isn't going to replace volume that has been lost deeper beneath the skin. Pronounced hollows and deep, established lines are therefore unlikely to disappear simply by applying a serum, however sophisticated its formulation. Similarly, if dark circles are your main concern, particularly those caused by pigmentation, this may not be the most targeted product for the job.

And patience is required. While the eye area may feel more hydrated and look a little plumper relatively quickly, improvements in skin density aren't necessarily something you'll see after a couple of applications. Dermalogica's headline clinical results are based on several weeks of consistent twice-daily use, so this is very much a product you need to commit to before deciding whether it has earned its place in your routine. Given that £125 price tag, anyone expecting an overnight transformation could understandably be disappointed.

My verdict

Dermalogica Smart Eye Density Serum isn't a miracle fix for every under-eye concern, and at £125 it certainly isn't an impulse buy. But what makes it stand out is that it is tackling something many eye products largely sidestep: the gradual loss of density that can make the area look increasingly hollow and tired with age.

After four weeks, I can’t claim a dramatic transformation, but I could see enough of a difference to my 55-year-old skin to want to keep using it. My under-eye area looks smoother, better hydrated and a little brighter, and concealer sits noticeably better. Those are subtle improvements rather than an overnight before-and-after moment, but for me they were visible ones.

So is it worth £125? That will depend heavily on both your budget and what you want it to do. If you're looking for a cheap eye cream or an instant fix for deep hollows, this isn't it. But if thinning under-eye skin is becoming one of your main concerns and you're prepared to invest in a targeted treatment and give it time to work, Smart Eye Density is one of the more interesting eye products I've tried. I'm certainly not ready to relinquish my little bottle just yet!