Experiencing the best of both worlds with San Francisco's famous sights and hidden gems
Pulling up outside the Inn at the Presidio, the picture which has been painted by so many of San Francisco as a city buzzing with rebellion, colour and the clanging of cable cars, albeit under a layer of fog, seems a world away.
The tranquil roads of the Presidio, a national park which was an US army post for more than 200 years, wind around great redwoods before they lead to uniformed rows of red brick buildings surrounded by rocking-chaired porches and fronted with American flags. The Inn at the Presidio is one of those buildings, a hotel where guests are encouraged to mingle over wine and cheese by a campfire in the evenings.
It’s beautiful, but if it wasn’t for the incredible views of the Golden Gate Bridge in the distance, you may not be blamed for thinking you’d accidentally taken a wrong turn and ended up in an entirely different place, where everything is in fine order.
In fact, the city about which it seems everyone in the world has something to say feels momentarily like a secret.
But the drama begins as soon as you step out a taxi - or a self-driving Waymo if you’re brave enough - into the electric heart of the city centre.
The bright lights, neon signs, steaming pavements and gritty people introduce you to the city you were expecting, and are unlikely to ever forget.
Every street has a different personality, something notable hiding in plain sight, something new to discover and explore. It’s a patchwork of neighbourhoods, unfolding over steep hills, each of which has its own attractions, its own things which are worth writing home about.
In that way, the city reflects the hills it is built on. The rushing rhythm of its busy centre giving you the push you need to get to the top; the tranquil parks and green spaces giving you the chance to take your foot off the pedal, even if just for a few brief moments.
Wander through the lantern-lined streets of its famous Chinatown and you’ll soon come to Jack Kerouac Alley, home to the City Lights Bookstore and Cafe Vesuvio, both must-visits for lovers of literature or personality-filled pubs.
The waterfront transports you to a seaside destination in the summer. Pier 39 is a circus of tourist shops, arcade games and sports bars, all-singing-all-dancing under the watchful and sinister eye of Alcatraz Island.
Located in the Presidio national park, the Inn at the Presidio is a peaceful retreat perfect for those wanting to relax after a busy day exploring the city.
Its spacious rooms offer beautiful views of the Golden Gate Bridge and the city centre is just a short shuttle bus away. The inn is also in close proximity to the Walt Disney Family Museum, with perks on offer for hotel residents.
For more information and to book, visit https://presidiolodging.com.
Alcatraz is one of San Francisco’s many must-sees. Having boarded a ferry to the island from Pier 33, visitors can take self-guided tours around the prison where some of the most infamous prisoners were once housed.
There are tours available both during the day and at night - the latter of which gives a unique and eerie view into what life on the formidable rock would once have felt like.
From the waterfront, you can hire bikes (regular if brave, electric if smart) and cycle the hilly route to and along the Golden Gate Bridge.
Unlimited Biking’s Golden Gate Bridge Bike Tour gives visitors the chance to take in incredible views of the city and beyond, while hearing tales of San Fran’s eventful history and quirks which make it one of the most famous cities in the world.
After braving the high winds over the Bay to get across the bridge itself - sure to be a score-off-your-bucket-list moment for most - you can also explore the stunning town of Sausalito before catching a boat back to the city’s famous Ferry Building as the sun sets.
Other must-sees in San Francisco include The Painted Ladies, a row of intricately painted Victorian houses on Steiner Street, the twists and turns of Lombard Street and the orange glow of Oracle Park’s gates, through which you can take in a baseball game and experience an integral part of American culture.
But at the same time, I’d warn you against blocking out every hour of your day. Because while there is a lot to do and see, San Francisco is a city that shouldn’t be meticulously planned or rushed. It shouldn’t come with a strict itinerary or checklist.
A Golden Gate Bridge cycling tour is a must when visiting San Francisco. As well as getting to and across the famous structure, Unlimited Biking’s tour will give visitors the chance to explore the stunning town of Sausalito. For more information and to book, visit https://unlimitedbiking.com/san-francisco/
Take in a tour of the famous Oracle Park before watching a baseball game set against views of the famous McCovey Cove. For tours and tickets, visit https://www.mlb.com/giants/ballpark/tours
For more information on what’s on offer during your visit to San Francisco, visit https://www.sftravel.com/
It’s in the wanders between the plans that you find the parts of the city which make up its beating heart. The buzzing little bars where one drink turns into five or six, the coffee shops where books are started and finished all in one day, the green parks where the city slowly exhales before thrusting you back into the urban buzz.
And it’s that unpredictability and unevenness on which the city is made. One minute you can be enjoying the peace and quiet of the Presidio’s trails and the next you can be thrust into the electric city centre and all it has to offer.
And that’s why San Francisco gets the reputation it does, as a city where you can spend just a few hours and already feel at home. A place to which you can travel thousands of miles and yet be adopted as one of its own for the time you’re there. A city which you can visit just once, and know you’ll spend the rest of your life wondering when you can go back.