Paul Smith's rise to fashion fame that started in a tiny Nottingham shop

Paul Smith's fashion career began after a twist of fate led him to work in a Nottingham shop

He’s conquered the fashion world, dressed the rich and famous for decades, and opened stores from New York to Berlin to Tokyo.

But did you know that the sartorial empire of Paul Smith began right here in Nottingham, in a single 3m x 3m store with no windows down an unassuming alleyway in town?

Today Nottingham’s most famous designer occupies arguably the finest retail property in the city, a grand flagship store within the majestic 18th-century Willoughby House on Low Pavement. And this is just one of dozens trading in more than 60 countries worldwide.

But once Paul Smith was just a talented but undiscovered tailor learning his art and trying to make his way in the world of fashion with a line of men’s shirts.

It was only thanks to the hand of fate that Paul Smith went into fashion, back in 1970. Originally he had dreamed of being a professional cyclist. And he was on his way to great things on two wheels when a terrible accident led to a long stay in hospital.

While he was recovering a friend he’d made while in hospital suggested a drink in the Bell Inn. There he introduced him to the owner of a sublime former Nottingham boutique and Mod hangout, The Birdcage on Bridlesmith Gate, who suggested Paul come and work for him until he was back on his cycling feet.

Thankfully for the fashion world, Paul fell in love with the art of clothing design so much that it inspired him to start his own line of men’s shirts. In 1970 Paul Smith Vêtements Pour Hommes was founded, trading out of a tiny store at 6 Byard Lane.

Did you know that the sartorial empire of Paul Smith began right here in Nottingham? Image | Paul Smith Limited B

There’s even a connection with cult classic Withnail & I there - the real-life actor who inspired the Withnail character was a friend of Paul’s, and helped him prepare some of his first orders for shipment. But that’s for another time.

Early orders from department stores were an auspicious if slow start. But the big moment came in 1976 when Paul had launched a show in Paris. It was attended by influential figures from the 70s fashion world, including buyers from department stores around the world.

With the business taking off, three years later Paul headed for London and established his first boutique in the capital. And there it stands to this day, on Floral Street in Covent Garden.

Today the little shop where it all began is currently occupied by, as it happens, a tailor’s. Paul himself didn’t stay in the site long, opening into larger premises a few doors down in the early 1970s. That became the store for generations of Paul Smith fans in Nottingham, and only closed down in 2017. But by then the iconic Willoughby House flagship had been trading for 12 years, serving as the perfect, grand setting for the designer in his hometown.

Say hello, wave goodbye

Announcing the closure of the Byard Lane store in 2017, a sign on the door read: “Say hello, wave goodbye. Paul Smith Byard Lane is closing in August 2017. Thank you for your support over the years.”

Nottingham supported Paul Smith in those early days. And he has paid the city back hundreds of times over by staying loyal, and local.

The Beeston boy has indeed conquered the fashion world, but the quintessentially English designer and Nottingham man has never forgotten those humble beginnings down an unassuming alleyway in town.