Mollis Saltbox review: Classic fried chicken burger with bubbly batter is a Friday night dinner winner

Mollis is the brainchild of Chef Alex Bond, owner of Michelin starred restaurant Alchemilla. The fried chicken pop up will be hosted at Saltbox sports bar near Motorpoint Arena.

Comfort food will always be in season come hail or shine.

Saltbox are hosting Mollis for a summer kitchen takeover in Nottingham. The compact menu is serving three types of burgers - chicken, veggie and vegan - to suit all diets. | Ria Ghei

placeholder image — Saltbox are hosting Mollis for a summer kitchen takeover in Nottingham. The compact menu is serving three types of burgers - chicken, veggie and vegan - to suit all diets. | Ria Ghei

I am a huge fan of wholesome fayre and will never tire of the holy trinity of hearty food - roasts, burgers and curries.

When a new burger pop up zinged on my radar, I just had to check it out.

Mollis and Saltbox is a new foodie takeover in Nottingham, but a little bit of background about the collaboration may be helpful.

Mollis on Derby Road is the second restaurant of Alex Bond, chef and owner of acclaimed neighbouring eatery Alchemilla.

Racking up that coveted Michelin star and four Rosettes in the AA Guide, anything coming out from Alchemilla is noteworthy.

Whilst Alchemilla offers a fine dining experience, Mollis is the more ‘street’ sibling placing the humble fried chicken front and centre stage.

Saltbox at the Motorpoint Arena is a sports bar.

They are hosting Mollis for a three-months-long kitchen takeover which ends in June.

Saltbox Nottingham is a sports bar in the city. | Ria Ghei

The menu will see Mollis’ chefs rustle up a compact range of three burgers, wings, tenders, fries, and a Pink fir potato side.

The venue is a 15-minute walk from Nottingham city centre and easy to get to.

I ordered a Classic Southern Fried Chicken Burger with pickles, lettuce and cheese sauce, sans Kewpie mayo (as I don’t eat egg mayo).

Classic Southern Fried Chicken Burger from Mollis was good sized burger. The standout batter was crunchy and light as air | Photo Ria Ghei | Ria Ghei

The burger was a decent portion and the batter ‘bubblicious’. It was lovely and aerated, crunchy, touch-dry and not at all greasy.

The meat itself was succulent and a generous sized fillet too.

Dining partner had the vegetarian option of Mushroom and Black Bean Burger.

Of the three burger options, the Mushroom and Black Bean version is the hearty vegetarian one | Photo Ria Ghei | Ria Ghei

The veggie patty had a good texture and nice bite.

The whipped lemon and herb goats cheese was a talking point at the table, I’m not sure it belongs in a burger.

Then again Chef Alex Bond is all about pushing those creative culinary boundaries, so it may be seen as an inspired sauce addition.

We also ordered a few sides. Fries were nicely dressed with house seasoning, whilst my side of Pink fir potato truffle curd, crispy onions was another talking point.

Pink fir potatoes were one of the side options at Mollis | Photo Ria Ghei | Ria Ghei

I could taste the truffle but no curd, which is one of my favourite ingredients of all time.

The sauce had an almost yoghurty taste and texture, not the usually squeaky curd I expected.

There is much to like at Mollis. Their fried chicken is next level - that batter is lush - and I have no doubt it will be a hit with visitors from the adjacent arena.

The original Mollis restaurant on Derby Road, which has a larger menu and soft-serve ice cream, is just begging to be visited.

I have my eye on Nashville hot oil fried chicken and have earmarked that and several other items from the main menu.

This is the beauty of collaborations, it not only brings businesses together but effectively provides a snapshot of what kitchen can offer.